Diving into Bristol's Dining Scene

There is no shortage of oyster bars on the Bay, a fact writ large on the tired face of Pete Sebring as he continues renovation work at the old custom house at 448 Hope in the heart of downtown Bristol. There was bureaucracy to deal with, as the grand brick building with its arched floor-to-ceiling windows has historic status. There were the last bits of the bar to put in and a host of other details, including yours truly knocking on the window of a construction zone. Inevitably it comes to the question he’s probably getting from all sides, “When are you going to open The Bristol Oyster Bar?” Mid July, by the way.

Some worry is good. The restaurant business eats the cavalier. Owner Pete Sebring seemed excited but quite humble. Restaurants might be new to him, but the sea is in his blood, and defines his whole career. Pete explains, “All I’ve ever done is work on the water; when I was 13 I got my first commercial license.” After getting a degree in Marine Fisheries Biology at URI, he worked on offshore boats for years. Ultimately, he recounts how his career on the water came to a crossroads; as his wife put it, “you can have a dragger, or a family.” Pete chose the latter, then started growing oysters by purchasing a lease in 2002. Next came the successful Atlantic Aquaculture Supply Company, his main line of business.

Pete’s supply company, as well as his long history in the industry, has lead him to develop relationships with hundreds of growers up and down the east coast, especially oyster farmers. These are the connections he will rely upon to bring you the very best seafood. Fifteen years on fishing boats means he knows how to cherry pick the very freshest fish, and the best variety of oysters from people whose quality he can trust. He plans to start with a large selection of oysters, which he will narrow down to 10-12 based on popularity, including his own Aquidneck Oysters that come from just a few miles away as the house mainstay.

Rather than wowing me with his project by way of angle and presentation, Pete explains how The Bristol Oyster Bar will rely on the simplicity that honors seafood best: Get the best, get it local, get it fresh and get out of the way with simple preparations.

Other than the raw bar, which sits suitably at the center of the restaurant like some altar to Poseidon, the rest of what’s best of local seafood will be featured in sandwiches like Po’ Boys of soft shell crab and Fish Sliders on Portuguese sweet bread rolls. Dinnertime entrées will be based on what’s freshest that day and showcased in different ways: grilled whole fish, grilled steak, bait fish and a boil. Pete also wants to expose some of the lesser used products of the Bay, like local cockles with wine and parsley as bar food and mantis shrimp, which I’m told the Asian market pays top dollar for. Two of Pete’s favorites are set in stone, grey sole fillet and scallops.

In the summer, the fact that the custom house sits back on the property means that there will be ample room in front for al fresco dining, stepped up nicely for optimal people watching, as you take advantage of some craft draught, or perhaps some champagne. This is a setup perfect for the town of Bristol, which as we’re so often reminded, loves a parade. With Pete at the helm, The Bristol Oyster Bar is a guided tour around the bounty of local waters he knows so well. 448 Hope Street, Bristol. The Bristol Oyster Bar will be open seven days a week , from 11am-9pm Sunday through Wednesday, and 11am-12am Thursday through Saturday.

Cooking Up History

History goes hands-on at Coggeshall Farm Museum all summer long with classes and demos for kids and adults alike featuring recipes, a hearth and even heirloom vegetables all from the 18th century, right from the farm. Don’t worry, the milk is not from the period,it’s straight from the cow, who is thoroughly modern. Come down Saturdays at 1pm for Kids in the Kitchen. This event exposes children to our agricultural history by preparing a 200-year-old recipe with ingredients grown on the farm. The adult class on Sunday at 4pm cooks a variety of historically accurate recipes on the 18th century hearth, culminating in a candlelight dinner where participants eat the fruit of their labors. Coggeshall Farm Road, Bristol. 401-253-9062

Good Food

Opened in January, Gooding Grille has found its place in Bristol, serving large portions of honest casual American food in a friendly welcoming atmosphere. The menu features all the fried and grilled favorites you’d expect, with the seafood that’s a must, for instance their seafood stuffed mushroom appetizer. 200 Gooding Ave, Bristol. 401-253-4663