Dining Review

TwoTen Oyster Bar is Shucking Delicious

Shelling out tasty ocean treats

East Side Monthly Magazine ·

When it comes to fresh seafood, southern Rhode Islanders have the inside edge. At this time of year, local fishermen are bringing in what seems to be an endless supply of seafood for us to feast on. We have swordfish, monkfish, yellowfin tuna, skate, squid and scallops. Since the Matunuck Oyster Farm opened in 2002, we’ve been lucky enough to have an oyster renaissance as well. According to my calculations, South County currently has 13 oyster farms! As any oyster farmer will tell you, fall and winter are the best times to partake in the oyster bounty because that is when they are the sweetest. If shucking your own seems like too daunting of a task, the TwoTen Oyster Bar & Grill in Wakefield is ready to satisfy your oyster cravings.

Located on the site of the former Hanson’s Landing and overlooking Salt Pond, TwoTen Oyster Bar & Grill has been serving local seafood since it opened this past spring. The restaurant is in the perfect spot and has gorgeous views of the water and the marina. Though I was there on a cold, autumn night, I could easily imagine the mobs of people swarming the restaurant’s three bars (two outdoors), enjoying some oysters and soaking in every last bit of sunshine. Even on the blustery night I visited, the restaurant was busy. There were not any tables available inside, so my friend and I were given a table on the enclosed deck. It was cold, but we chose a table near a heater, so it wasn’t too bad.

The restaurant’s specialty cocktail list is small but well crafted. Their signature Blueberry Basil Sangria ($12) blends Stoli Blueberry Vodka with lemonade, muddled blueberries and basil and is topped off with sparkling water. They even put oysters in their cocktails! The Oyster Shooter ($7) is a shot glass filled with a local oyster, Absolut Peppar Vodka, cocktail sauce, horseradish and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. If you are looking to splurge, there is a combo special which includes a dozen raw oysters and a bottle of Veuve Clicquot ($95). On the Saturday night we visited, there was entertainment on the outside deck. Two men (Ed & Ted) performed for the full time we were there, playing guitar and singing classic rock tunes.

On the night I was there, they offered two types of local raw oysters – Ninigret Nectars and Watch Hill. Wanting to sample some oysters but also looking for something to warm me up, I started with an order of the Oysters Rockefeller ($12). My five large oysters were broiled in their shell along with steamed spinach, bacon, swiss cheese Oysters, little necks and shrimp from the raw bar Baked Lobster Mac & Cheese and bread crumbs. Even if you’re not usually an oyster fan, you really can’t go wrong with oysters smothered in cheese and bacon. I still prefer my oysters raw, but the Rockefeller version was tasty. My friend began with a cup of New England Clam Chowder ($5), and this was no ordinary cup
sized portion. It was a very large serving, and my friend reported the chowder to be super hot and the perfect consistency (not too thick and not too thin). She loved it.

Seeing how cold it was the night I was there, I really craved warm, comfort food, and the Baked Lobster Mac & Cheese ($18) fit the bill. It wasn’t a huge portion, but it was full of tender lobster meat. Seriously, every bite had a piece of lobster in it. The cheese sauce was a combination of cheddar and Monterey jack, which gave it both a delicious flavor and a velvety smooth texture. My friend decided to try the Fried Shrimp and Chips ($17). Although the menu described the shrimp as being “breaded in Panko breadcrumbs,” they arrived battered and deep-fried. Not a bad thing, just not what she expected. There were five very large pieces of shrimp, and they seemed larger than jumbo, so we asked our waitress. She told us they are considered “colossal” because they are ten shrimp per pound. It was a bold choice for fried shrimp and not what either one of us was imagining. The shrimp were accompanied by amazingly good French fries, cole slaw and cocktail sauce.

Our waitress was excellent and kept close tabs on our drinks and offered refills at the appropriate times. She checked back several times to make sure we were enjoying our meals. We were too cold to stay for dessert, but I did inquire about them and most are made in-house by one of the owner’s wives. On the night we were there, they had a selection of pies (key lime, blueberry and pumpkin) and a pumpkin swirl cheesecake. A woman at the table next to us had the pumpkin swirl cheesecake, and it was a huge portion.

Before spring makes its return and people are once again lined up for a seat at one of the outdoor tables overlooking the marina, the TwoTen Oyster Bar & Grill is hoping you will stop in to try one of their off- season specials. On Tuesdays from 6-8pm, they have a $10 TwoTen Wine Club special. This includes three half glasses of wine paired with food samplers (attend nine tastings and the tenth is on the house). On weekdays from 4-6pm, the raw bar offers Buck a Shuck. On Sunday and Monday, chicken wings are 39 cents each. My grandmother always told me “the world is your oyster.” At the TwoTen Oyster Bar & Grill, oysters may not be their whole world, but they’re worth the trip.

TwoTen Oyster Bar & Grill
210 Salt Pond Road, Wakefield
782-0100

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